Hungry Like the (Quiroz) Wolfs: Antarctica, Buenos Aires, Montevideo

Antarctica. It's been on my bucket list for a long time. In fact, my mom, brother, and I had not one but two trips booked and cancelled pre-COVID. I had given up on Antarctica - until my mom let me know she was planning to go, and I gave her my most winning-est smile (hard to do on the phone!), "Could we come with you?" And boom - we were booked, for the third time, with Bryson and Scarlet to join us.

We were out for almost three weeks, including four days in Buenos Aires.

Below are the day to day details of the trip, but if you want to skip to the video version - and dance to the tune of Vanilla Ice's Ice Ice Baby, here's the link to the video:

2023.03 Antarctica - Google Drive

We booked a few private tours on Viator and loved them.

First up - Buenos Aires Off the Beaten Track - Private Walking Tour - Caballito Through the Ages, with Elise.

On this tour, we stopped at unique sites like a market built in 1889 where we learned about the local food. We talked about how welcoming Argentina has been to immigrants (which is how there are so many pizza places, which come from the Italians), and at the same time has wiped much of the native population :( We also visited the oldest church where Pope Francis was baptized.

Here's the off-the-beaten-path old barber’s shop (named as one of the best barbershop museums in the world).

This was a barber shop used by the Mafia. So to get into the secret room, you needed to call this phone, and a door would open.

Scarlet's favorite stop was a 19th century tea/coffee house and bakery with golden chandeliers, Italian marble floors, and gorgeous stained-glass windows.

We also got to visit a legendary tango salon called La Catedral, once used as a grain silo. It has bizarre artifacts, like a human heart as a ceiling light and toilets for seats.

We also got a full day Horseback Riding tour to experience life as an Argentian cowboy (gaucho). We headed to Argentina Polo Club for a delicious breakfast of dulce de leche pastries and mate (tea) demonstration and tasting.

Then horseback riding. On the ride, we got to trot, then gallop! We also stopped by a river.

After riding, we had a classic Argentine barbecue with vegetables. And then a pool with chocolate ice cream and cake.

Our Hotel 8 de Octubre was in a great spot in Recoleta, so there was time for playgrounds. Recoleta was the area were rich families had their estates and also housed the cemetery for people like Eva Peron (think Madonna and the movie Evita).

Then we did a Private Tour Like a Local and got to learn about the architecture.

Avenida de Mayo was inspired by Madrid's Gran Vía and is one of the largest and most important arteries in Buenos Aires.

Here's the obelisk, where millions of people gathered when Argentina won the World Cup earlier this year.

Casa Rosada is Argentina's version of our White House. They used to use cow blood to make it pink. We also went to the Catedral, the main Catholic church in Argentina.

We then headed to Palermo, then Chinatown (yes, Argentina is so welcoming to immigrants, this includes Asians too). It is basically one block long, but still nice to see some Asians here.

As our final stop, we went to the Ecopark, which used to be a zoo. After the passing of the polar bear (due to heat), the public protested, so it is now a free park, though there are still animals like a camel, giraffe, llama, and birds.

Our first day on the Celebrity.

Scarlet and Bryson immediately headed to the Kids Club. There were less than ten kids on the entire boat, so they had this place almost to themselves.

We learned about Shackleton, famous for surviving a journey in Antarctica that lasted over a year. Shackleton was known for his leadership. He and four of his men were within 97 miles of the South Pole and could have had fame and glory. But he decided to turn back because they didn't have enough food, and they were already starving. His wife Emily asked Shackleton why he had turned back with the Pole in sight, he simply said: “I thought you would prefer a live donkey to a dead lion.” Because of Shackleton, all 28 men on Endurance survived.

Here is the Endurance, still preserved because of the cold water.

Antarctica is multi-national, not owned by one country. I'm glad to know we are sharing this beautiful land.

We go to see lots of wildlife, including whales, dolphins, sea lions, seabirds, and of course penguins. Here are some highlights:

On our 15-day cruise voyage, there were quite a lot of days at sea. What did we do? There were shows, Kids Club, games, and of course Bingo! Poor Scarlet almost won Black Out Bingo.

Tango shows

We also did lots of art projects.

Kids Club pirate day.

After 3 sea days, we landed in Ushuaia for our first stop. We boarded on a catamaran to Sea Wolves Island and the lighthouse at Les Eclaireurs Archipelago, sailing along Lapataia Bay and through the Beagle Channel. We went to Hammer Island for the Magellanic penguins, Bird Island for the cormorants, and Sea Wolves Island for sea islands

Cape Horn, the end of the World.

Getting into the iceberg territory, through Schollart channel, then Paradise bay, then Gerlache Strait.

Creative art from recycled material (not by me but beautiful nevertheless).

We got so lucky with the weather with clear skies, warm-ish that the Captain opened the front of the ship for us to enjoy the view.

We learned the difference between a sea lion and seal. Sea lions are "eared seals" that move on all four flippers on land (quadruped).

More art!

Bryson found a chessmate.

Good thing Alex wasn't there. There was all you can eat pizza, burgers, fries, and ice cream - basically available all the time.

Elephant Island. Apparently, the weather often means passengers can't see anything.

Dance parties - this one is a Silent Dance Party - each person has their own headphones where they can change stations.

Thank goodness for kids club!

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

We took a 4x4 to one of the most remote destinations in the Falklands Islands off road through Port Louis, the first land ever farmed in the islands. We got to Seal Bay, home to the largest Rockhopper colony in the Falkland Islands. Then we went to Swan Pond for lunch and spent time with the Gentoo Colony.

Cormorant

Our 4x4 through water.

In Puerto Madryn, we took a 2 hour bus from the port to Punta Tombo Penguin Rookery.

From September to March, this rookery is home to more than 1 million Magellanic penguins. From November onward, the penguins reproduce, the eggs hatch, the chicks feed, and the babies molt.

Montevideo & Uruguayan Carnival

We were able to join Montevideo's carnival to the Tablado where we became Murga performers. On the way, we visited Pass Batlle & Ordoñez Park, La Carreta Monument and Plaza de la Armada. Check out those vibrant green birds.